Sunday, October 22, 2006

Bolivia - Rurrenabaque

While Michelle ventured from La Paz to Lake Titicaca and the challenges of high altitude walking and climbing, Sancha headed Amazon basin direction and to the challenges of low altitude heat and humidity. Rurrenabaque is a small town which one can access via the death road and 16 hours bumpy road trip, or rocky 15-30 seater planes and 1 hour trip. No prizes for guessing what this flashpacker opted for! Indeed, TAM (military aircraft) there, Amazonas (15 seater heave stomach flight) back for about 70 USD... I travelled with Gareth and Vic (our two Kiwi partners in travel crime).

Our flight out of La Paz was delayed - no surprise as apparently the weather conditions over the Andes can play havoc with small planes´ plans! . By the time the planes managed to get going, they were seriously behind schedule. We landed on a grass airstrip (cool!) and were immediately vamoosed off the plane, and I mean "vamos, vamos, vamos!!" (go, go, go!!) by the crew and groundstaff. People heading back to La Paz were almost overlapping with us trying to get off!! But it was good to be back in a tropical kind of place - all the sounds of the pampas and the bush and the green lushness was good to see after 6 weeks of desert and brown. We had signed up for a three day Pampas tour and we knew we were going to see lots of wildlife. There was so much though it was almost like they were perfectly placed for our viewing!! Three hours of a boat trip and we had seen alligators, birds of paradise, monkeys, vultures, turtles, capabaris, pink dolphins, so many birds of all shapes and sizes, we lost count, we were in awe... (alligator across the river; capybara, the world´s largest rodent)
We swam in the river near the dolphins, knowing alligators were only a few metres away, but apparently in dolphin territory you are safe as the dolphins know the alligators´weak spot, so the allis stay away! Other highlights included getting up close with a wild cobra and searching forthe elusive anaconda (no joy for us! but our guide put in a great effort of looking for him!), fishing for piranhas and watching the losing gringos play the bolivians at the footie. Our chef Magali looked after us really well on the foodie front, so many fresh veggies and everything else, like fluffy pancakes!

So after 5 days of there and back, we made our way to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca (once we managed to get out of Rurre - flight delay...) to rejoin Michelle who acted as tourguide for us, so well did she know the streets and people of the town at that stage!!

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